Every Saturday night, just before seven in the evening, you will find a bunch of fifty or so senior citizens hanging around the underground concourse at the entry to Teatralna metro station in Kiev.
They are watching a group of five or six musicians - accordion, saxophones, tambourines - assemble in front of a baked-potato joint. At seven prompt, the band strikes up and the dancing begins. 'Why do you come here?' I ask an old lady (actually perhaps not much older than myself - or maybe even younger), partnering a similar cheerful biddy. 'Oh, it's just fun - and it doesn't cost anything. We're here every week' comes the reply. At eight o'clock the band packs up and five minutes later the concourse is empty.
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